By Cynthia Unninayar
In looking at jewellery trends, it is important to also look to the fashion world, where couturiers are increasingly using jewellery to show off their creations. For the Spring/Summer 2010 collections, runways were full of statement-making necklaces, stackable bangles, wide cuffs, and dangling hoops. But this is only part of the jewellery story for 2010, as International Jewellery presents its top twelve trends for this year.
1. COLOUR - In both fashion and jewellery, 2010 is heralding an optimistic new year with vibrant colours that add a sense of excitement to the colour palette. As in fashion, colour remains a strong trend in jewellery. Evoked with gemstones, enamel, and metals, colours range from subtle tone-on-tone and pastel shades to energetic jewel tones.
|Tibi by Amy Smilovic, using Pantone Violet: We’re responding with colouring that is unabashedly happy and feminine with an edge, colours that evoke a new beginning and upbeat fresh start.||Vianna|
2. NATURE - What could be more vibrant than Nature. It has and continues to serve as constant inspiration for jewellery designers. The most popular trends are flowers, butterfl ies, marine life, and snakes. In both stylized and realistic forms.
|Rebecca Taylor, using Pantone Tomato Purée: We feel that “anything goes.” We are not feeling restricted. In times like these it is important to do what feels right and believe in yourself, and the customer will buy what excites her.|
|Victor Mayer, Mathon Paris, Paula Crevoshay|
3. NEW METALS - As jewellers expand their repertoire— because of price, practicality, or design—they are looking at new metals and finishes. While gold and platinum remain the basis of fi ne jewellery, designers are using palladium, titanium, bronze, and steel. The latest material to hit the marketplace is Scott Kay’s SKCobalt, a special cobalt alloy called BioBlu™27. Strong, durable, and hypoallergenic, this white metal is a natural for bridal jewellery. Another strong trend is blackened metal—silver, steel and even gold— which offers a dramatic backdrop for diamonds or other materials.
|Peter Som using Pantone Turquoise: Each piece of clothing must be its own little special jewel. This happens through fabric, cut, detail and most definitely colour!||Rina Limor,_ Scott Kay|
4. OLD CUTS - As couturiers often turn back the clock to find inspiration in vintage clothing, jewellery designers also look to the styles of yesteryear. The revival of the rose cut is one example. Begun two years ago, it continues in earnest as more luxury brands incorporate this old cut into their pieces. Other shapes and slices of diamonds and gemstones, along with “raw” stones are also gaining in popularity as designers and consumers appreciate this more natural look.
|David Rodriguez using Pantone Fusion Coral: I am working very hard to keep the look exciting, but at a sharper price so that the customer will love the item and not have to think twice about purchasing it.||Nina Runsdorf, Tschetter Studio|
5. HOOP EARRINGS - Hoop earrings continue to be seen everywhere, from Main Street to Wall Street, from the red carpet to the classroom. They come in a variety of materials and sizes. More recently, they are drawing from the past to find embellishment with gemstones, diamonds, and even little charms. As they evolve, they also are moving from round to oval to elongated or other shapes, some open, some closed.
|Tia Cibani using Pantone Tomato Purée: I feel that we need to evoke strong emotions with our consumers in order to convince them. A product must touch their senses, and colour plays a significant role in this!||Rosato, Alberian & Aulde, Ramon|
6. WRIST WEAR - Bangles and cuffs were one of the major trends on the runways this season. In a variety of forms and sizes, they ranged from stacked bangles, to solid exotic designs, to lacy and open cuffs. With a style to fit any wrist and any pocketbook, bangles and cuffs are must-haves for any jewellery wardrobe.
|Dennis Basso using Pantone Violet: It’s important that this collection be exciting and, using colour, show the consumer something new that she will want to add to her wardrobe.||Jewelmer, Bergio|
7. ORGANIC - Familiar stones such as rough and sliced diamonds are not the only organic shapes being used in fine jewellery. Metals are taking on textured looks and asymmetrical or fl uid shapes in what can be described as organic design. As attitudes shift towards more “organic” in other spheres of life, it is not surprising that jewellery is following this trend.
|Catherine Malandrino using Pantone Tuscany: Everything that brings a smile to a face is valuable for me, so color in this present environment is essential.||Garavelli, Toby Pomeroy|
8. ECO-JEWELLERY - With today’s concern for the environment, fair wages, and safe working conditions for miners, jewellers, and gem cutters, an entire movement has been created to offer jewellery made from recycled or ethically-mined gold, fair-trade gemstones, and conflict-free diamonds. A number of brands have gone a step further and donate part of their sales proceeds to environmental causes. A trend for now and the future.
|Reem Acra using Pantone Aurora: My collection will stay happy, vibrant and versatile with playful options to change the look completely. Accessories are a big part of this collection and they give another layer or dimension to the clothes.||Tiffany Kunz, Jewellery Theatre|
9. SILVER - In ancient times, silver was worth more than gold. How times have changed! But silver has once again gained its noble status. Even designers who once ignored the shiny white metal, preferring gold or platinum, are now offering lower-priced pieces in sterling. Silver jewellery comes in a variety of designs and textures, with or without diamonds and gemstones. It can even be treated to come in any colour. The latest trend is blackened silver set with diamonds.
|Pamella DeVos using Pantone Eucalyptus: We recognize that consumers are being more careful with purchases, and they want perfect fi t and real value. Our goal is to excite our customers with fabrics in beautiful new colors at sharper price points each and every season.||Stephen Webster, Maya Jewels|
10. EDGY - From daggers to skulls, from barbed wire to bullets, there is a market for jewellery on the edge. Part of the urban chic, these pieces are made in a wide variety of materials and styles, from earrings to bracelets, pendants to cuffl inks, for both men and women.
|Thuy Diep using Pantone Aurora: I exude optimism through quirkiness, confi dence and individualism, embracing the future by defi ning it. Colours are key, not through over-indulgence, but through beautiful, understated sophistication.||Dior, Magerit|
11. OPENWORK -
The high gold prices have led designers to innovate. While much openwork is still done by hand, some designers are using new technologies to create inventive hollow and wire pieces, while laser cutting offers innovative solutions for exquisite openwork and lacy creations.
|Erin Fetherston using Pantone Pink Champagne: People need to be inspired, and colour creates excitement and desire. People are also looking for investment pieces that are seasonless and timeless. Neutral classic colours in combination with fresh and vibrant colours seem like a relevant direction in this time.||Bapalal Keshavlal, Roberto Coin|
12. BEADS - “To bead or not to bead,” that is no longer the question. Today, bead bracelets are the hottest trend going. An extension of charms, they fulfi l two needs: the desire to personalize one’s jewellery and the joy of collecting. Made generally in silver with gold or enamel accents and gemstones, bead bracelets generate traffic and create customer loyalty. Who can buy just one?
|Adrienne Vittadini using Pantone Amparo Blue: Colour is emotional and will be a very important mood lifter for spring 2010. This collection is based on bursts of colour and a mix of patterns with signature Adrienne Vittadini heritage.|