By T.R. Flora
Today, Jochen Pohl’s reputation for making perfect jewellery extends well beyond Europe. From the meticulous selection of the most beautiful gems and the impressively powerful form of his pieces to perfect and uncompromising in-house craftsmanship, it all has to be just right
When the goldsmith and jewellery designer founded his company 17 years ago, he had a clear idea of what his signature would be—totally unrivalled artistry that would always take its inspiration from the stone, around which the form, or design if you will, develops organically.
Exceptional precious stones make his pieces stand out in any jeweller’s display window. Today, the location of his company in Idar-Oberstein gives him the opportunity to see and buy rare stones before the rest of the trade. His favourite stone? He struggles for an answer. Tourmaline, sapphire, garnet… He is like a parent who loves all his children equally, even though they are all so different. Pohl has not forsaken white diamonds, however. For a goldsmith, white is just one colour of many in the family of gems.
Gemstones expand his creative freedom, which is something he holds dear. It is the freedom to surprise, alternating between precise and playful forms. It is the freedom to use different materials and to explore different stylistic directions. It is the freedom to quite literally expand the collection’s range of facets.
Another insight into Jochen Pohl’s success can be summed up in two words: respect and dignity. He has respect for the work of his employees, for the precious stones he cuts, and for the things that inspire him, for example, architecture. Form and design, however, are only part of the holistic approach he takes. They are complemented by the materials, the unique properties of the gems, and— above all—by the craftsmanship. The pieces need to be crafted with care, diligence, feeling, and passion in order to create that which Jochen Pohl values so much—jewellery with a certain poise, elegant dignity, and the power of simplicity.
Not only can you see the carefully balanced composition that characterizes Jochen Pohl’s pieces, but, even with your eyes closed, you can feel their almost gentle equilibrium and distinctive character.
Heritage, Philosophy, Perfection
Jochen Pohl was born and raised in the world-famous gemstone capital of Idar-Oberstein in Germany. As a 27-year-old goldsmith, he founded his own company in 1996. From the outset, the focus was on outstanding precious stones
Because of his contacts with many precious stone dealers in his hometown and his own unique feel for exceptional stones, his very first jewellery collection was distinctive due to its notable gems. After all, the careful selection of stones, respect for their beauty, and an appreciation of their unique personality—as Jochen Pohl himself calls it—form the fundamental first step in his artistic process.
Without exception, all of Jochen Pohl pieces are made in his in-house workshop by experienced master craftspeople. Anyone who has ever witnessed the many steps involved in a goldsmith’s work and the extraordinary degree of precision required will know that experience and devotion are needed in spades. And it all takes time—time that the designer is prepared to take, out of deference for the stone and the precious metal, which have taken millions of years to form.
The Jewel’s Personality
Jochen Pohl designs his pieces as subtle stages that are perfectly tailored to the individual character of the stone in question. They are miniature sculptures with a surprisingly modern form—atmospheric creations composed from exceptional gemstones and the most precious metals. In order to do justice to the remarkable crystals, his pieces have always been characterized by a minimalist and almost sculptural design style.
But their true character only comes to the forefront when you hold them in your hand. Instead of a metallic hardness, you feel an unexpected and sensual softness and balance. The solid metals used do not diminish the lightness of the ring on the finger. This singular property offers an equilibrium that makes his pieces so distinctive, and highlights how essential their feel and texture are to their development. For all their visual opulence and even radical minimalism, this equilibrium is shared by all Jochen Pohl pieces, and evokes the power of simplicity.
