Platinum, a unique precious metal, is especially popular now that the desire for understatement has been rekindled amongst luxury aficionados.

Beyond the glitter of the world of glamour, those who design and those who know about jewellery have always appreciated that platinum is truly special. In contrast with other precious metals, platinum is never flashy or gaudy. The weight of platinum jewellery is a tangible indicator of its worth. Jewellery designers value the metal’s pure and rare attributes, and its inherent subtlety. Those who want to own platinum jewellery are drawn to its intrinsic value, together with its discreet appearance.

It is not surprising that platinum has followed a different course to that taken by other precious metals during the financial and political turbulence of the past year. Around the world, value systems are being called into question, trends are being subjected to scrutiny and the relationship to all things luxury is now a controversial theme. The thirst to consume has nearly been quenched, glamour and bling are no longer in fashion, but attributes such as quality, understatement and individuality are enjoying a revival.

The global demand for platinum is steadily increasing in a world where manufacturers of luxury goods are experiencing declining sales. One reason for this is that platinum is synonymous with authenticity, reliability and inherent worth. For centuries these characteristics have captured the hearts of those who design, manufacture, sell and love jewellery and continue to do so. Platinum is amongst the most difficult precious metals to mine and purify. Patience, dedication and a great deal of effort is needed to coax out the small quantities of shimmering white platinum from the few locations where it is found across the world

There are some extraordinary designs in this year’s platinum jewellery collections. Henrich & Denzel, Joerg Kaiser and Georg Spreng take their inspiration from budding flowers, while it is the dynamic and complex lines of rugged landscape that influence Niessing and Tom Rucker. What these designers have in common is the knowledge and skills to draw upon the endless opportunities that a metal as ductile and versatile as platinum present. Amongst the exquisite creations included in these collections are filigreed and complicated structures, as well as austere pieces and those with a vintage element.

Where precious stones have been used, these tend to be ones that are in keeping with international trends. The luminous white metal provides a contrast with black or grey gemstones, as well as this season’s warm colours. That’s the look of contemporary luxury: pure, rare and eternally precious.

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