Sotheby’s Geneva - Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels

May 2014


On 13 May 2014, Sotheby’s Geneva auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels will present an impressive selection of signed and period jewels from private collections, some with noble provenance.

The “Graff Vivid Yellow”
The “Graff Vivid Yellow”

The array of important diamonds in the sale includes the "Graff Vivid Yellow", an exceptional 100.09 carat daffodil yellow diamond ring and the Victory Diamond, named in honour of the Allied victory in World War II. Coloured stones include an important 121.00 carat Burmese sapphire and an exquisite 12.46 carat Burmese ruby. Collectors of jewels from the 20th century will be captivated by the Belperron jewels from the collection of Mme Picha-Eisenstein, a close friend of the celebrated designer Suzanne Belperron.

Jewels from the Collection of Flora Sassoon

Diamond necklace
Diamond necklace

Sotheby’s is presents a selection of jewels from the collection of Flora Sassoon. Outstanding pieces from her collection include a diamond necklace,(lot 459, est. 400,000 – 700,000).

The auction will also feature an impressive selection of pieces from other important private collections, some of noble and royal provenance.

Diamonds of exception

The Magnificent Jewels section features an exceptional offering of important diamonds, led by the spectacular “Graff Vivid Yellow” , a sensational daffodil yellow diamond weighing 100.09 carats, mounted as a ring. Of exceptional beauty and extraordinary fire and brilliance, this gem is among the largest Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds in the world, appearing on the list of the ‘World’s Largest Cut Diamonds’ in Ian Balfour’s Famous Diamonds (2008) (lot 507, est. $15,000,000 – 25,000,000).

The selection will also include a stunning cushion brilliant-cut diamond weighing 70.33 carats. This D Colour flawless gem was found to be part of the rare Type IIa subgroup – chemically the purest of all diamond crystals and often with extraordinary optical transparency (lot 500, est.$12,000,000 – 16,000,000).

The Victory Diamond
The Victory Diamond

Of fascinating historical significance is the Victory Diamond (illustrated right), named in honour of the Allied victory in World War II. A step-cut diamond weighing 31.34 carats, it was also graded by the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America) as D Colour and Potentially Flawless, and is also Type IIa. The Victory Diamond formerly belonged to Florence Gould, celebrated as one of the truly great collectors of jewellery in the 20th century (lot 504, est. $5,000,000 – 8,000,000).

Among the other white diamonds on offer is a spectacular diamond ring by Graff, set with a round brilliant-cut diamond which, at 103.46 carats, is one of the largest known round diamonds. The gem, like the ‘Graff Vivid Yellow’, appears on Famous Diamonds’ list of the ‘World’s Largest Cut Diamonds’ (lot 506, est.$3,500,000 – 5,000,000).

The section will also feature an impressive array of step-cut, potentially flawless diamonds, including a D Colour 17.25 carat diamond (lot 493, est. $1,700,000 – 2,400,000). Also worthy of note is a 30.01 carat diamond (lot 496, est. $1,500,000 – 2,500,000).

Coloured Diamonds

Ring of toi et moi
Ring of toi et moi

The selection of coloured diamonds comprises a ring of toi et moi design, set with two diamonds: one a Fancy Vivid Blue of 3.08 carats and the other a Fancy Intense Blue weighing 2.83 carats. Both diamonds are potentially flawless (lot 526, est.$4,000,000 – 7,000,000).

Fancy Pink diamond ring
Fancy Pink diamond ring

The allure of pink diamonds is exemplified this Spring in a Fancy Pink diamond ring , claw-set with a marquise-shaped stone weighing 12.07 carats (lot 522, est. $4,000,000 – 7,000,000) along with a round brilliant Fancy Light Pink diamond ring weighing 10.11 carats (lot 525, est. 715,000 / $500,000 – 800,000).

Coloured Gemstones

Ruby and diamond ring
Ruby and diamond ring

The sale in May will also feature a rich assortment of exceptional gemstones. The exemplary characteristics of Burmese rubies are represented by a very important ruby and diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 12.46 carats between triangular diamond shoulders (lot 461, est. $2,800,000 – 4,800,000).

sapphire and diamond ring
sapphire and diamond ring

Meanwhile, a fine example of Kashmir sapphires is found in an important sapphire and diamond ring – the cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 10.96 carats mounted as a ring between demi-lune diamond shoulders.(lot 492, est. $1,200,000 – 1,600,000).

Connoisseurs will also delight in a rare and magnificent unmounted Burmese sapphire– an oval stone weighing 121.00 carats (lot 445, est. $1,300,000 – 1,800,000).

Emerald and diamond ring & emerald and diamond ear clips
Emerald and diamond ring & emerald and diamond ear clips

The section will offer a variety of emerald jewels, including an emerald and diamond ring (left), featuring a step-cut Colombian emerald weighing 30.32 carats (lot 514, est. $300,000 – 500,000). A further example of the dazzling green of Colombian emeralds can be found in an exquisite pair of emerald and diamond ear clips (lot 520, est.$200,000 – 300,000).

The sale will include a wide selection of fine natural pearl jewels - more than 60 pieces - among them necklaces and ear pendants and fine pearl drops.

Signed and Period Jewels

Gold and diamond necklace from the collection of Jacqueline Auriol
Gold and diamond necklace from the collection of Jacqueline Auriol

The sale this spring features a fascinating selection of jewels demonstrating exemplary craftsmanship and historical significance. A fragment of aviation history is brought to life through a gold and diamond necklace from the collection of Jacqueline Auriol, celebrated as one of the most audacious test pilots of the 20th century (lot 432, est. $22,000 – 33,000).

Van Cleef & Arpels: ruby and diamond brooch, “Deux Fleurs” & pair of ruby and diamond ear clips “Pergola Royale”
Van Cleef & Arpels: ruby and diamond brooch, “Deux Fleurs” & pair of ruby and diamond ear clips “Pergola Royale”

Connoisseurs of jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels will delight in wonderful examples of serti mystérieux craftsmanship: a selection of jewels designed as flowers, the petals composed of calibré-cut rubies, the pistils with brilliant-cut diamonds. The sale includes a ruby and diamond brooch, “Deux Fleurs” , 1996 (lot 501, est. CHF $150,000 – 250,000), along with a pair of ruby and diamond ear clips “Pergola Royale”, 1996 (lot 502, est. CHF $150,000 – 250,000) and a pair of ruby and diamond brooches (lot 517, est. $70,000 – 100,000).

Natural pearl, enamel and diamond devant le corsage BY René Lalique
Natural pearl, enamel and diamond devant le corsage BY René Lalique

The Art Nouveau designer René Lalique is represented by a small but exquisite private collection of jewels, including a natural pearl, enamel and diamond devant le corsage set with glass berry clusters and circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds, suspending a baroque-shaped natural pearl (lot 391, est. $118,000 – 150,000).

Hinged torque necklace by Suzanne Belperron
Hinged torque necklace by Suzanne Belperron

Sotheby’s Geneva has led the market for Belperron jewels since the sale of Suzanne Belperron’s personal collection in 2012. The woman widely recognised as the greatest female jewellery designer of the 20th century is well represented in this sale, with a selection showcasing her creativity and craft. The ensemble is from the Collection of Mme Picha-Eisenstein.Highlights from Mme Picha-Eistensten’s collection include a pair of diamond clips by Suzanne Belperron, 1943, accompanied by a hinged torque necklace (lot 233, est. $40,000 – 53,000) and a diamond cuff bracelet, “Mon Bracelet”, Suzanne Belperron, 1942, composed of three tapered bands set with circular-cut diamonds (lot 249, est. $40,000 – 53,000).

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