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IN THE PRESS


Cufflinks as jewellery by Cartier

Cufflinks as jewellery by Cartier

12 September 2017

It begins with three brothers – Louis, Pierre and Jacques. Adventurers in jewellery and watchmaking, they travelled the world in search of new horizons, enticed by the lure of new experiences, techniques and materials. Their concept of gentlemanly elegance was a modern one, encapsulating an art de vivre whose refined details and precious signatures have inspired the most high profile dandies on the planet, from Boni de Castellane and Jean Cocteau to Andy Warhol and Yves Saint‑Laurent.

Links to history: Style and savoir-faire

Cufflinks appear in Cartier records as far back as 1859 and these accessories, indispensable to the gentleman’s wardrobe, are re-imagined in thousands of workshop drawings throughout the Cartier archives. Over the years the themes change with the fashions, from Russian-inspired guilloché enamel to striking colour combinations in emeralds and sapphires at the height of the Art Deco period. Creative exchanges saw Cartier set cufflinks with precious stones, or recast them as watches, winding crowns or compasses to be worn on the wrist.

Platinum, rectangular faceted emeralds, calibrated faceted sapphires. Sold to the King of Yugoslavia who gifted them to King Carol II of Romania
Platinum, rectangular faceted emeralds, calibrated faceted sapphires. Sold to the King of Yugoslavia who gifted them to King Carol II of Romania

Reflecting the Cartier style, they adopted iconic creations of the Maison such as the menagerie and the exposed screws of the Santos watch.

Links to famous clients: Made to the most extravagant orders

Cartier cufflinks have explored registers of expression varying from the stylish to the ceremonial, from horse-racing to heraldry and coats of arms. In 1921 HRH Princess Anastasia of Greece even commissioned a pair of white enamel cufflinks emblazoned with the royal crown.

Gold, platinum, white enamel “C” monogram and royal crown. Calibrated buff-top sapphires. Commission from HRH Princess Anastasia of Greece
Gold, platinum, white enamel “C” monogram and royal crown. Calibrated buff-top sapphires. Commission from HRH Princess Anastasia of Greece

On occasion they are the bearers of highly personal messages, from the humorous to the romantic. Special orders from discerning clients include the miniature watch cufflinks made for Cole Porter created to allow the master songwriter to check the time whilst on stage.

Gold, swivel bar system, round calibre 426 JLC movement, rhodium finish, 16 jewels, anchor escapement, single-metal balance, flat balance spring
Gold, swivel bar system, round calibre 426 JLC movement, rhodium finish, 16 jewels, anchor escapement, single-metal balance, flat balance spring

As a token of love for the man who abdicated the throne for her, Wallis Simpson commissioned for the Duke of Windsor a set of cufflinks entirely paved with diamonds and engraved on the front with “WE”. This pun on the initials of their first names, Wallis and Edward, continues on the reverse with the double-meaning word play inscription of “Hold Tight”.

Cufflinks gifted by Wallis Simpson to Prince Edward of Wales
Cufflinks gifted by Wallis Simpson to Prince Edward of Wales

www.cartier.com

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Video - Bohemme - New collections - 6 October 2014
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Cartier "Le Style et l’Histoire" 4 December 2013 – 16 February 2014, Grand Palais , Paris. - 18 November 2013
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Collection L’Odyssée de Cartier - Parcours d’un Style - 26 September 2013
Video - Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague - L’Impertinente - 11 July 2013
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Video – Cartier - Winter Tale - 19 November 2012



 

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