BaselWorld 2010 – What a difference a Year Makes!

May 2010


By Cynthia Unninayar

At the previous edition of BaselWorld, pessimism was rampant, all too reflective of the watch and jewellery industries as a whole. This year, however, things were quite different.

BaselWorld, the World Watch and Jewellery Show, opened on an optimistic note on March 18 and the optimism continued throughout the entire show. When the fair closed its doors eight days later, on March 25, a total of 100,700 trade professionals from across the globe had crossed its turnstiles—a seven percent increase over the 2009 edition. Exhibitors numbered 1915, a slight decrease from last year’s total of 1952. Given the times, however, these numbers were not totally unexpected. The media, both consumer and trade, was well represented with more than 2900 people visiting the fair.

Jacques J. Duchêne, President of the Exhibitors’ Committee, drew a very positive conclusion from the results. “We are delighted with this year’s BaselWorld. Without being euphoric, we can optimistically look ahead this year. The show is, and remains, the place to meet for the watch and jewellery industry.” On a purely anecdotal note, it was clear that traffic was much greater in the watch halls than in the jewellery halls. Having said that, however, many jewellery exhibitors reported that most of the buyers who did show up were optimistic and ready to order. Comments from the various brands in Halls 2, 3, and 6 were mixed, and ranged from “ok” and “better than last year” to “excellent” and “one of the best BaselWorlds ever.”

BaselWorld 2010 – What a difference a Year Makes!
Earrings by Giovanni Ferraris

Strolling the halls, it was evident that many jewellery brands and designers have been facing the challenges of the economic slump with a variety of new products and innovations. One major example is the continued use of lightweight, hollow, and lacy designs, which allow for a bigger and stylish look at a smaller price. Alternative metals such as titanium, steel, and bronze have become mainstream for upscale designers, while wood has joined the ranks of precious commodities. Dark clouds over the industry have also had their silver linings, literally. The use of this white metal by even very upmarket brands continues unabated. As one designer quipped, “It’s not the metal that is important, it’s the design.” And silver certainly accounted for a great many interesting designs at the show, both as a pure metal and set with gems and diamonds. In terms of metals, pink gold proved to be a favourite choice of designers from around the world, while many others preferred to use blackened metals—gold, silver, titanium—in their pieces.

BaselWorld 2010 – What a difference a Year Makes!
Earrings by Rodney Rayner

Design Directions

In terms of styles, there was something for everyone at BaselWorld. From haute joaillerie pieces dripping in diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies to simple enamelled silver charms, and everything in between. Drop earrings and the ever-popular circular hoops drew a lot of attention, in plain metal or embellished with diamonds and gemstones. And speaking of circles, they could be seen in all types of jewellery, continuing the design directions started a couple of years ago. The organic look continued its ascension, as did textured pieces in all shapes and materials.

BaselWorld 2010 – What a difference a Year Makes!
Peacock bangle by Zorab

Right in time for summer, the Nature motif was one of the major trends at this year’s BaselWorld. All sorts of fauna—animals, birds, insects, snakes, spiders, fish, frogs, tigers, lions, and even mythical animals—were depicted in fine jewellery. Yet, the flower and fruit motifs were also ubiquitous favourites. Don’t count out the diamonds, however, which were resplendent in large and unusual shapes, colours, and cuts in luxurious necklaces, earrings, and rings.

Colour and More Colour

BaselWorld 2010 – What a difference a Year Makes!
Choker by deGrisogono

The main design direction is the use of colour. With designers looking for more “affordable luxury,” they paired semi-precious gemstones with precious accents in diamonds and sapphires for an elegant and opulent look. Besides the multi-coloured creations, some of the most interesting combinations were purple and green, purple and pink, and the tonal trio of red, yellow, and orange.

BaselWorld 2010 – What a difference a Year Makes!
Pendant by As & As

Although black represents all the colours combined and white is the absence of all colour, the contrasting combination of the two non-colours was one of the strongest trends at this year’s show. Black and white diamonds were most often paired together, while some jewellers used black sapphires or onyx with white agate or diamonds. Pearls also lent themselves well to the contrast of black and white, as did enamel.

Next year, the show will be held from March 24 to 31, 2011.

www.baselworld.com