By Cynthia Unninayar

The third in the Vicenzaoro trilogy of trade fairs held in the historic Italian city closed its doors last September with cautiously optimistic views for the future.

The international gold, gems, and jewellery event at the Vicenza Fair ended on a positive note with an increase in overall visitors of 4.5 percent over the 2009 edition, while the number of international buyers increased by 7 percent, attesting to the growing internationality of the Italian trade show. Nearly 13,700 trade professionals from 107 countries came to see the jewellery and gems proposed by some 1,370 exhibitors (996 from Italy and 374 from 31 countries).

An indication of the growing consumer confidence in Italy was seen in the high volume of retailers from many regions in the nation, also confirming the role of the September edition of Vicenzaoro as a meeting place for the sector as it prepares for increased sales during the Christmas period—the highpoint for the gold and jewellery business worldwide.

On a more global level, the signs of economic recovery worldwide are helping the Italian sector to regain some stability. Figures from ISTAT indicate that Italian jewellery exports increased during the first half of 2010 by 23 percent over 2009, for a total of €1,778 million, with exports going above all to nations such as China, Hong Kong, the UAE, and Turkey. Having said that, this difficult downturn has also had an effect on the design of Italian (and other) products as well as the approach brands are taking towards the national and global marketplace.

Design Directions

The record rising gold prices have resulted in an increased number of lightweight designs, lower priced gemstones used in combination with the more “precious” varieties, and the use of mixed media, such as wood, leather, bronze, and multicoloured titanium. Silver continues to be a noble metal, adopted by many high-end brands, which are creating fashionable designer collections in the white metal, often with diamonds and other precious gems.

Design directions tended to be widespread, not surprising given the range of brands with their different stylistic approaches. Colour was the biggest overall trend, along with black and white combinations. As usual, the Nature theme in both flora and fauna was quite prevalent as were the edgy urban chic styles. Enamel continues to be a favourite of a number of Italian brands, portrayed in colourful motifs of all kinds.

Gem World and Glamroom

Exhibitors at the two recent additions to the fair, Glamroom—grouping together a number of emerging and established brands and designers—and Gem World— in association Assogemme Association—showcased a wide variety of jewellery designs from around the world as well as colourful gemstones and diamonds.

Among the many talented Glamroom participants was returning German brand Bastian, offering a selection of modern silver creations, and newcomer Daniel Espinosa from Mexico with a variety of silver, gold, and gemstone jewellery. Another newcomer to Glamroom was S+Ability, offering special metal-alloy bracelets that help in maintaining good health. In keeping with the growing trend towards sustainable and eco-friendly jewellery, Italian brand EcoJewel showcased pieces made from enamel and precious, recycled materials (gold and silver from old jewellery and manufacturing scraps) and Eco-Gems (synthetic products from Switzerland with the same physical and chemical characteristics as natural stones). The company says that its activities have Zero Impact® on the environment, certified by LifeGate.

Vicenza will again be in the global spotlight for fine jewellery at its winter fair, to be held January 15 to 20, 2011.

www.vicenzafiera.it