The world’s leading watch and jewellery trade show, Baselworld opened its doors on March 26 under a cloudy, cold, and rainy sky. The dreary weather seemed tp reflect the initial mood of both exhibitors and visitors. Yet, as the week progressed, patches of blue showed through the clouds, a fitting symbol of the mixed results at this important fair.
By Cynthia Unninayar
It is quite understandable that words such as “low expectations,” “difficult,” “pessimistic,” “unprecedented,” and “unsettled times” were on the lips of exhibitors in the jewellery halls at BaselWorld 2009. But at the same time, those who came to showcase their latest wares were also “hopeful,” expressing their “optimism” that the global economic meltdown would resolve itself sooner than later.
Gemstone and diamond earrings by Brumani (Brazil)
“By the numbers” When the show closed its doors eight days later, on April 2, a total of 93,900 visitors from across the globe had crossed its turnstiles—a 12 percent decline from the record number of 106,800 that the fair attracted in 2008. Exhibitor numbers were down a little over 6 percent at 1,952 this year compared to the 2087 that came to the last edition. Given the times, however, these numbers were not totally unexpected.
On a purely anecdotal note, it was clear that the watch halls were busier than the jewellery halls—again understandable since the jewellery sector has been hard hit by the recession and the pending bankruptcies of a number of U.S. retailers. Yet, despite the lower visitor numbers this year, many jewellery brands informally reported “better than expected” results and promising new contacts—welcome blue skies in the economic gloom and doom. Some even reported doing “great business” as buyers sought unusual or more affordably priced designs and collections for their stores.
Sylvie Ritter, Show Director, drew a positive conclusion from the final results, “BaselWorld 2009 has shown that the watch and jewellery industry is facing up to this difficult economic situation in an extremely constructive way. The show has successfully given the watch and jewellery industry new momentum and, as a result, business has been boosted.”
“Capri Plus” bracelet in yellow gold with wood and diamonds by Roberto Coin (Italy)
Sliced rough diamonds faceted white and black diamonds, and pearls make up this “Fire and Ice” necklace by Autore (Australia)
Diamond, gold, and enamel ring by Magerit (Spain)
“Designs for the times” Many jewellery designers are facing the challenges of the current economic slump with a variety of new innovations and products. One major example is the increased number of lightweight designs, as new technologies permit the creation of hollow and wire pieces, while laser cutting offers solutions for open work. These often give a bigger but stylish look for a smaller price. Another trend is the increased use of “alternative” metals such as titanium and wood to create original and contemporary styles by such high-end brands as Zydo, Roberto Coin, Alfieri & St John, and Stephen Webster, among others.
With high gold prices, many brands have brought silver into the spotlight. As one prominent designer mused, “It’s not the metal so much as the design that is important.”
Pearl and diamond ring by Utopia (Italy)
Emerald ad diamond “Bovary” earrings by Zydo (Italy)
“Circles to Stilettos”
In terms of styles, many trend directions were evident this year at BaselWorld. Necklaces continue to be long and loopy, with lots of links or strands of pearls, while haute joaillerie pieces dripped in diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. The earring was a perennial favourite in all sorts of shapes and sizes, in plain metal or embellished with diamonds
and gemstones, and styles ranged from small studs
to modified chandeliers and slinky stilettos, without forgetting the ever-popular circular hoops. Speaking of circles, this was one of the more prominent trend directions that was displayed in earrings as well as pendants and rings. In terms of rings, they included small metal bands to pieces that combined large semi-precious centres with precious accents in all colours, passing by highly stylized organic forms in a variety of materials.
Sapphire and diamond “Atlantic” pendant by Jewellery Theatre (Russia)
Amethyt and diamond “Aphrodite” earrings by Casato (Italy)
“Flowing organics contrast with edgy sharpness”
The organic look continued to gain in popularity as seen in the collections of Jewellery Theatre and Manoel Bernardes, as did textured pieces in all forms and metals. A number of brands paired rose-cut diamonds and other gemstones with a variety of textures and metals. The edgy look was epitomized by French couturier John Galliano, who launched his jewellery collection at BaselWorld last year, as well as by designer, Cesare Paciotti, whose pieces were introduced this year.
Gemstone and diamond “Dagger” pendant by John Galliano (France)
Black sapphire and white diamond rings by Al Coro (Germany)
Textured yellow gold and rose-cut “Gardenia” diamond ring by Carrera y Carrera (Spain)
“Elements of nature”
Right in time for summer, the marine motif was one of the major trends at this year’s BaselWorld. From frogs to fish and from coral to crustaceans, the aquatic motif ranged from simple gold designs to stunning gem-set pieces. Autore’s Oceania collection featured gem-encrusted reproductions of shells, algae, and even fantasy fish, while Stephen Webster created fighting fish in tinted titanium along with other life under the sea. Seahorses were one of the more popular marine motifs and could be found at Pierez Italia, among others.
Nature in its floral form was a ubiquitous favourite. Delicate gemstone flower rings were presented by a number of brands, including Carrera y Carrera and Palmiero. Another popular trend depicted the elements, as exemplified in the stylized “Fire and Ice” collection by Autore and the “Snow” creations by Favero.
Titanium, sapphire, and diamond “Jewels Verne” brooch by Stephen Webster (England)
Lilac agate and diamond pendant by Annamaria Cammilli (Italy)
“Primary colours” Colours in all shades and hues could be seen, although purple was the couleur du jour, as the fashion world’s love affair with this complex colour was translated into jewellery. Delicate shades of amethyst were combined with diamonds and other gems by a number of brands such as Casato in its “India” and “Aphrodite” lines, while Annamaria Cammilli used lilac agate in her purple creations. Yellow and orange gemstones were also prominent, especially citrine, sapphire, and garnet.
Although black represents all the colours combined and white is the absence of all colour, the contrasting combination of the two non-colours was one of the strongest trends at this year’s show. Black and white diamonds were most often paired together, while some jewellers used black sapphires or onyx with white agate or diamonds. Pearls also lent themselves well to the contrast of black and white, as did enamel.
Tsavorite, peridot, garnet, and diamond “Sortilège” ring by Gay Frères (France)
White gold and diamond “Butterfly” ring by Leon Hatot (Switzerland)
Diamond and gemstone ring by Luca Carati (Italy)
Pearl and diamond “Ballerina” ring by Schoeffel (Germany)
Other events:
BaselWorld has also become a venue for events and conferences that have a significant bearing on the industry. Two presentations were conducted this year dealing with the issues of socially and environmentally responsible practices in the jewellery sector. First, the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) launched its certification system and explained the process to exhibitors, attendees, and the media. The RJC is open to all in the gold, diamond, jewellery, and watch supply chain who are willing to adhere to the RJC’s Code of Practices and submit to RJC-approved third party auditing. A few days later, the Rapaport Fair Trade Conference was held to address the impact of the global economic crisis on the diamond and jewellery trade and to discuss Fair Trade practices within the industry.
The Israel Diamond Institute (IDI), under the leadership of managing director Eli Avidar, kicked off its “Together Works” campaign, a strategic marketing program aimed at demonstrating the Israeli diamond industry’s commitment to its international trading partners. The “Together Works” program includes print and online advertising in leading trade publications and websites as well as an exclusive B2B service for IDI partners in the United States, Israel’s largest diamond market.
Black and white diamond ring by Noah (Spain)
Gold “Casual” earrings by FR Hueb (Brazil)
Diamond and sapphire “Hello Kitty” pendant by Enlightened/Swarovski Elements (Austria)
Woven gold bracelets by The Fifth Season (Italy)
White gold and diamond “Snow” ring by Favero (Italy)
Emerald and diamond suite by Staurino (Italy)
Visitor survey:
According to BaselWorld officials, a survey of buyers indicated that three-quarters rated the 2009 edition of the show as either good or excellent. As many as 78 percent of visitors in 2009 stated that “BaselWorld is a must.”
About 68.1 percent of those who came to BaselWorld were from overseas (compared with 63.6 percent in 2008), and 71 percent of those visitors questioned confirmed that they intend to visit the show next year. The main goal of their visit to the watch and jewellery show was to gain an overview of the market. This objective was followed by networking, customer care, meeting new clients, and information gathering about market innovations.
Cut-out silver and onyx pendant by Brosway (Italy)
Gemstone and diamond brooch by Ferraris (Italy)
Emerald and diamond ring by Stefan Hafner (Italy)
Diamond and emerald ring by Stenzhorn (Germany)
Silver, gold, and garnet bracelet by Gurhan (USA)
Gemstone “Flowers” ring by Palmiero (Italy)
The next edition of BaselWorld will be held March 18 to 25, 2010
