Desert Finds

March 2014

Desert Finds

March 2014

By Cynthia Unninayar

In February, the Arizona cities of Phoenix and Tucson became prime destinations for jewellery and gemstone buyers, brands, and budding designers.


Cuff made of 24K rose gold over bronze with shimmering accents by Rebecca (Centurion Contemporary Metals category winner).

The severe winter storms in most of the United States did nothing to put a damper on the warm ambiance experienced in Phoenix and Tucson as buyers from around the nation and the world came out in force to see the elegant jewellery and gemstones at the by-invitation-only Centurion show in Phoenix and the more than 40 professional and public gem shows scattered all around the city of Tucson.


Ring made with a rare green chameleon diamond and white diamonds set in platinum and 18K gold by Maidi Corp (Centurion).

Kicking off with Centurion

Held in a luxurious resort in Scottsdale, after its move from Tucson three years ago, the private Centurion show kicked off the USA jewellery trade show circuit amid an air of increased confidence in the sector. Anecdotally, booths were busy, and exhibitors generally expressed satisfaction with results at the end of the three-day show.

As usual, the event featured informative speakers, networking events, panel discussions, awards for designers and vendors, and a host of jewellery brands eager to showcase their creations.


Diamond and gold cuff by Todd Reed (Centurion).

New at Centurion this year, the morning “Shark Tank” presentations offered exhibitors an opportunity to explain their products in a few brief minutes to retailers during breakfast.

This year’s keynote speakers included celebrity event planner Colin Cowie who offered jewellers tips on creating memorable customer relationships and growing their businesses. Among his main points were: Great customer service is the glue of business and key to luxury; people will forget everything else, but not how the shopping experience made them feel; retailers need to find all the touch points they can to sell to the client; retailers should be straightforward and ask what budget and type of product the client wants; and finally, retailers should always ask what they can do better to service the client.

On the final morning of the show, diamond guru, Martin Rapaport, spoke on “Prices and Profits in a Changing World.” Focusing on the role of independent jewellers in the future of the diamond business, he shared advice on how they can maintain and increase their market share against other distribution channels. “The diamond business isn’t about diamonds. It’s about relationships,” he said, adding that Centurion is not a show, but a community. He explained that a diamond travels thousands of miles from mine to market, but the last 18 inches across the counter is what is most important. With today’s increased awareness of social and environmental responsibility, the origin of the stone is also very important. “Human rights and social responsibility are your responsibility. It’s a matter of personal morality.” In that vein, Rapaport also encouraged jewellers to hire veterans.

In terms of high diamond prices, he advised, “Don’t freak out. It’s not about price, it’s about value,” warning that jewellers should not sit on inventory hoping it will go up. He also used the interesting analogy of a lion, lamb, and peacock to illustrate that the majors will be impacted more by across-the-board diamond price hikes than the independents. “The solution,” he stressed, “is to strategically define your added value. Go deep inside yourself and find where your passion adds value, and define yourself. You are not a lion. You are not a lamb. You are a peacock! And lions don’t eat peacocks because they choke on the feathers.”


Platinum shared-prong halo ring with 3.00 ctw diamonds by A. Link & Co. (Centurion Bridal category winner) & Platinum, gold, sapphire, and diamond ring by Jack Kelége (Centurion).

Design Awards

The annual Centurion Design Awards, voted by retail attendees, honoured a variety of categories. Some of the winners are featured on this article.


Silver, 14K yellow gold, and tsavorite “Gingko” hinged cuff by Babette Shennan (Centurion Emerging Designer).

From 90 entries, three Emerging Designers were chosen to display their products at this year’s Centurion. Sponsored by Stuller and in its sixth year, the three winners were San Francisco-based Babette Shennan, Ukraine-based Stanislav Drokin, and Turkey-based Rhyme & Reason.


Platinum pendant featuring a 38.30-ct Ethiopian opal, 9.79-ct spessartite, and 2.21-ctw of diamonds, with yellow gold accents by Spark Creations (Centurion Coloured Stone Fashion winner).

As usual, the roster of exhibitors at Centurion featured some of the industry’s best brands, with designs ranging from simple to sophisticated, in all types of metals, gemstones, and diamonds. A few highlights are featured here.

Desert Finds

On to Tucson

With more than 40 shows taking place all over the city in February, the principal professional events were AGTA and GJX. Held at the Tucson Convention Center, AGTA reported strong attendance on opening day, and the momentum continued throughout the week.


Opal, diamond, and gemstone ring by Different Gems (Tucson Pueblo Gem & Mineral Show).

“The AGTA Gemfair™ was remarkable this year,” said Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA’s CEO. “Attendance was up by about three percent and sales were better than ever!” He attributed this positive result to an improvement in the overall attitude and opinion of the industry.


Facetted 47-ct kunzite by Constantin Wild (GJX) & Carved amethyst and gold earrings by Munsteiner (GJX).

Several new events contributed to this year’s success. The AGTA CAD Design Studio was located on the Gem Hall floor and had appointments throughout the show. The full-service studio offered designers the chance to convert their vision to a CAD drawing and create a wax mold ready for casting. AGTA also brought back the Tools, Technology and Supplies Pavilion located in the Grand Ballroom. The return of the Daily Drawing was also a big hit, as buyer’s gathered around the AGTA Spectrum of Design Pavilion to see the winning draws of $1,000 to $2,000 to be spent on the show floor.


Carved Bolivian ametrine with concave carving on the back, which appears as convex mirrors through the top by Bob M’Closkey (photo: Jeff Scovil) (GJX) & Facetted Paraiba tourmaline by Wild & Petsch (GJX).

While gemstones and pearls of every shape, size, quality, type, and colour could be found, as usual, at the Tucson shows, this year saw an increase in the number of fine jewellery designers and brands exhibiting at both AGTA and GJX, which was held in its usual tent across the street from AGTA.


Csarite and diamond ring by Erica Courtney (AGTA).

Erica Courtney joined both AGTA and GJX this year with a new collection of “Csarite” jewellery along with facetted gemstones. This rare diaspore, found only in Turkey, displays a variety of colours from green to yellow to orange to brown, depending on the ambient light.


Pendant made of amethyst, zircon, and an Intarsia (33.61 ct) set in gold by Paula Crevoshay (AGTA).

A longtime AGTA regular, Paula Crevoshay showcased a revival collection called “Czarina Intarsia” featuring spectacular geometrical intarsia designs.


South Sea golden pearl and diamond necklace by Jewelmer (GJX).

Over at GJX, Jewelmer attracted much attention with its exquisite collection of South Sea golden pearl and diamond jewellery. New York-based Golconda showcased a one-of-a-kind necklace of large carved amber beads as well as a variety of gemstones. Spectrum Award winner Caroline C was also present at GJX with a selection of elegant gemstone jewellery.


Designer Caroline Chartouni with her AGTA Spectrum Award. Inset: Her winning earrings made of gold, diamonds, tanzanite, Paraiba tourmaline, and emeralds.

Next year’s Centurion and AGTA will most likely be held during the same time, due to the Super Bowl taking place in Phoenix. For exact dates of the Centurion show, visit CIJintl.com regularly as it will have updates later in the year for all the shows.