By Cynthia Unninayar

During the ninth edition of the retail-focused Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition, held in February at the Doha Exhibition Centre in Qatar, more than 60,000 visitors came to see a very impressive line-up of more than 300 luxury brands from around the world.

To say that Doha dazzled during the sixday fair would be an understatement. The event featured what was probably the highest concentration of luxury watch and jewellery brands under one roof—a sort of mini-Basel combined with Geneva’s SIHH, whose timing falls in between these two fair dates. “The Doha show has become one of the main events to preview the latest collections in the world of fine jewellery and watches,” said Ahmed Abdulla Al Nuaimi, Chairman of the Qatar Tourism Authority (QTA), the show’s organizer. While the QTA organizes world-class events in other areas, including sports, art, and culture, he said that “jewellery is one of the shows that people love here, and we wanted to make a show that was different from everyone else. The Middle East is a strong market and since we are retail-oriented, we provide an environment of trust where customers can feel confident in their purchases.”

As the popularity of the Doha shows grows, what are its future plans? “When the show started, it had 2500 square meters. Today, there are more than 15,000 square meters of space and 27 pavilions, with many brands on the waiting list,” adds the Chairman. “Next year, the show will expand, but continue to be very selective. We may also let brands exhibit individually, in a sort of exclusive boulevard setting.”

Three of the Main Pavilions

The Doha show is arranged by pavilions organized by the prominent retailers in Qatar, which featured their brands in individual booths within the pavilion. Three of the larger pavilions are described here.

As you step into the luxurious entrance hall, immediately on the right is the imposing Al Fardan Jewellery pavilion. After its creation in 1954, Al Fardan Jewellery has grown into one of the Gulf’s most renowned pearl and jewellery retailers. Its pavilion featured nearly four dozen brands, including Chantecler, Chopard, Fabergé, Harry Winston, Masriera, and Piaget. It also displayed a fabulous collection of its own natural pearl jewellery. Hussain Alfardan, Chairman of the Al Fardan Group, expressed his satisfaction that many Qataris have kept incredible pearl collections over the centuries, and he believes that Qatar, as a nation, possesses the largest collection of natural pearls in the world.

On the left is the very elegant Ali Bin Ali Watches and Jewellery pavilion. For over fifty years, Ali Bin Ali’s Luxury Division has catered to the discerning client with fine jewellery, watches, and writing instruments. It also has exclusive sales rights for mono-brand boutiques, such as Cartier, Montblanc, Panerai, Dunhill, Van Cleef & Arpels, among others. In addition to these brands, the pavilion at the Doha fair featured Aaron Basha, Audemars Piguet, Chanel, Graff, Richard Mille, Stephen Webster, and Ulysse Nardin, among the nearly three dozen participants.

Straight ahead was the impressive stand of Al Majed Jewellery. Its origins date back to a young pearl trader who expanded to become one of the major dealers in the region. Ali Al Majed’s sons joined the business, and under Mahdi, the business grew and even survived the recession after cultured pearls swept the market at the outbreak of World War II. In the 1940s, Mahdi established Al Majed Jewellery, which expanded to include gold and diamonds from the best European designers. Today, the legacy continues with his sons Ahmad, Mohammed, and Jamil. Among the dozens of brands they showcased were Crivelli, Gucci, Ivanka Trump, Nanis, Roberto Coin, Patek Philippe, Pomellato, Swarovski, Utopia, and Zydo.

Al Majed Jewellery also showcased their pearl division, with some remarkable examples of the company’s own natural pearls, including a magnificent three-strand necklace that took two generations to complete. Mohamed M. Al Majed, the company’s Vice Chairman, explained “Every pearl has a story, and the stories of all these go back generations. Many of these came from my father and grandfather.”

Impressions and Reactions

Large diamonds were on the menu at Graff, with many extraordinary pieces. Clive Golanski, Senior Executive, said the brand has been exhibiting in Doha for eight years, and that the show was “very good,” adding that each year, the brand comes up with bigger and more interesting pieces (in diamonds and precious gemstones) to meet the demands of their knowledgeable clientele.

Italian brand Zydo also displayed impressive diamond pieces, including a remarkable multi-million-dollar suite that drew a lot of interest. “While our diamonds are very good sellers, our emeralds and rubies also do well,” said Jack Zybert. “People here appreciate and understand quality. This is the best show in the Middle East, and one of our best shows. We always do well.”

Mohamed El Hoss, Sales and Marketing Manager for Mouawad agreed that customers appreciate quality and are very informed when it comes to design. He has also seen a generational shift in terms of taste. “The younger women seem to prefer smaller pieces, with diamonds and gemstones, while the older ladies prefer the larger ‘bling’ pieces.” And speaking of bling, Mouawad chose the Doha fair to launch its $6.8 million Snow White Princess watch in 18K gold covered in 233 diamonds, for a total of 106.93 carats.

First-time exhibitor, Thiago Abdala, of Brazilian brand, FR Hueb, remarked “We find customers to be very informed and quality-oriented, with younger people more interested in pieces that they can wear everyday and not have to leave in the safe. Our bestseller is a flexible ring that uses a new technology to expand around the finger. South Sea pearls also do well.”

Andrea Hansen, CEO of USA-based Ivanka Trump Jewellery, stated that their main clientele is the younger generation. “They like our contemporary pieces, and once they buy something, they come back with their sisters and cousins.” The brand’s most popular collection features tassels, and now it is also launching an emerald line.

With pearls so popular in the Gulf region, it came as no surprise that Australian brand Autore did well at the show, as Philippe Poix, International Executive Director of Jewellery Sales, indicated. “The show has been very good for us. Our South Sea and Tahitian pearl jewellery is highly appreciated by visitors to the show.” In terms of business, several brands reported better sales than last year, while others indicated that business was about the same. Others felt it was important to offer a range of quality products at affordable prices rather than expecting to sell only a few at very high prices. A wide range was, in fact, available in watches and jewellery.

Regional Gulf Jewellery

Two examples of designs from the Gulf region stood out at the Doha show. One was the launch of a new brand, Noudar, by Noor Alfardan, a member of the Al Fardan family in Qatar. Noor combines the aesthetic splendour of her Arabian heritage with her own design sophistication to offer jewellery for the global Arab woman steeped in the traditions of the ages.

The collections include: Imperial Lace, incorporating diamonds or gemstones in lacy rings; Henna, evocative of festive decorations; Zuhoor, a mosaic of sapphires and diamonds; Al Andalus, inspired by geometric art; Mint Leaves, in diamond pavé; Fingerless Gloves, a delicate decoration for the hand; and Enchanted Snake, with a diamond snake curling around the ear.

Al Zain, a well established brand, had its own pavilion at the exhibition. Founded in 1930 by pearl merchant Abdulla Al Zain, it is one of the oldest jewellery companies in Bahrain and operates 15 retail outlets in premium malls across the Middle East, as well as wholesale relationships around the world.

The company’s state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in Bahrain has 250 employees, and produces unique handcrafted designs in 18K or 21K jewellery set with diamonds and gemstones, as well as natural Bahraini pearls.

In addition to unveiling a new logo at the show—its name in the form of a stylized bird—Al Zain launched a new collection called ArabDeco, which combines “the style of Art Deco with the traditional forms of arabesque art,” as explained by Samar Al Zain, co-owner of the company with her husband and children, adding that the collection was well received at the show. “Doha is a very important show, and we participate every year. It is always good for us,” she added.

By the end of the show, it was clear that the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition has become one of the main events on the world calendar of fine jewellery and watches.

www.dohajewels.com