Indian Jewellery Design – Bollywood and Beyond

December 2012


By Cynthia Unninayar

When it comes to creating fine jewellery and spectacular events to showcase these elaborate pieces, there is no better example than the India International Jewellery Week, held just before the annual trade fair, India International Jewellery Show.

During the II JW Grande Finale, Soonam Kapoor, centre front, with the models wearing the “Best of the Best” creations.
During the II JW Grande Finale, Soonam Kapoor, centre front, with the models wearing the “Best of the Best” creations.

It was glamour, glitter, and grandeur in Mumbai last August when India’s Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) hosted the third edition of India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Mumbai. IIJW is an initiative to showcase India’s finest jewellery in terms of design, innovation, craftsmanship, technology, and quality to customers around the globe.

The world’s leader in diamonds, India is also the fastest growing manufacturing centre, and, this year, 32 of its leading designers and brands showcased a wide variety of styles and the latest trends at the five-day event.

Adding even more glitz to this grand production, actress and model Soonam Kapoor, GJEPC’s brand ambassador, dazzled the runway wearing some of the most spectacular jewellery pieces made by Indian jewellery designers, as well as Indian couture fashion. A number of other Bollywood celebrities also shared the ramp, along with popular models, and the shows were staged by leading Indian choreographers.

Model wearing diamond jewellery at II JW, designed by the late Nobuko Ishikawa, a pioneer in Japanese design.
Model wearing diamond jewellery at II JW, designed by the late Nobuko Ishikawa, a pioneer in Japanese design.

Japan was even represented by the nation’s leading jewellery designer, the late Nobuko Ishikawa, a pioneer in introducing “design” to jewellery in Japan, whose designs were presented by his sister, Yoshie Ishikawa. To encourage new talent, there was also a spot for up and coming jewellery designers on the runway. The event concluded with a majestic Grande Finale evening, where each participant featured extraordinary pieces in the “Best of the Best” line-up.

A Few Design Highlights

Model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at II JW by Gitanjali.
Model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at II JW by Gitanjali.

Gitanjali Gems, the global jewellery group, followed their “Beti” concept that wowed audiences at the previous edition. This year, their jewellery featured the mother-daughter duo, with various celebrity moms walking the red carpet.

Model wearing a dragon headdress made of gemstones and diamonds in silver by Laksh Pahuja.
Model wearing a dragon headdress made of gemstones and diamonds in silver by Laksh Pahuja.

Laksh Pahuja, one of India’s most prominent designers, commemorated 100 years of the sinking of the Titanic. He presented a “Titanic” necklace, handcrafted with blue diamonds, silver, gold, Swarovski zircons, wood, and white diamonds. Among his other designs was a dragon headdress.

Model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at II JW by Amrapali, with emeralds from Gemfields.
Model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at II JW by Amrapali, with emeralds from Gemfields.

Amrapali introduced the “Panna” collection in association with the emerald miner, Gemfields. Through five millennia, from Mogul magnificence to Hollywood glamour, the talismanic emerald has been lusted after for its seductive beauty and ravishing rarity, and the brand’s artisans worked in traditional Indian techniques to showcase these green gems in a variety of designs.

Sonal Chauhan walking the runway wearing jewellery evoking a blend of vintage Indian contemporary styles and the romanticism of the royal Victorian era by Dipti-Amisha.
Sonal Chauhan walking the runway wearing jewellery evoking a blend of vintage Indian contemporary styles and the romanticism of the royal Victorian era by Dipti-Amisha.

Dipti-Amisha, a sister team, re-created “treasure beyond measure” in a blend of vintage Indian contemporary styles and the romanticism of the royal Victorian era. In addition to gold and diamonds, the collection was crafted using emeralds, topaz, opal, ruby and pearls to offer a vibrant and colourful alternative to the line.

Model wearing diamond and gemstone jewellery at II JW by Jewels Emporium.
Model wearing diamond and gemstone jewellery at II JW by Jewels Emporium.

Jewels Emporium brought forth its extravagant “Jadau” jewellery portraying a rich stimulating palette with a playful mélange of shimmering gold, vivid gemstones, and a variety of French enamelling in more than 350 different shades.

Anmol Jewellers are well known for their endless imagination and lavish useof colour. This year they presented a collection blending contemporary style with a touch of traditional Indian design.

Model wearing emerald, pearl, and diamond jewellery at II JW by Kays Jewels.
Model wearing emerald, pearl, and diamond jewellery at II JW by Kays Jewels.

Kays Jewels presented its “Ambe Ambalike” collection, a celebration of womanhood. The main source of inspiration was the girl child at birth, the Kanyaa. For IIJW, Kays Jewels created a range of pieces for the contemporary woman, offering an eclectic mix of diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. On the traditional side, Kays also presented a range of traditional Kundan Gold Meenakari jewellery befitting the royals of the Mogul era.

Zeenat Desai presented pieces that revitalized the jewels of India’s golden age, bringing them up to date for a new generation of fashion-forward women.Natural gems and precious metals combined with innovative, edgy styling to give a fresh spin on traditional jewellery forms. The collection presented an eclectic array of Mogul-inspired jewellery with an avant-garde twist.

Diamond and ruby jewellery by II JS participant Priority Jewels.
Diamond and ruby jewellery by II JS participant Priority Jewels.

IIJS: New Initiatives

The 29th annual India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) welcomed pavilions from a number of countries including Thailand, Belgium, Israel, Turkey and the United Arab Emirates. Some fifty new exhibitors joined the IIJS this year, bringing the total to more than 800 companies from India and around the world, with a wide variety of products in gold, silver, platinum, gemstones, and other materials.

The GJEPC, the show’s organizer and trade body promoting “Brand India,” indicated that the first half of 2012 was difficult for the nation’s jewellery industry, as manufacturers confronted inflation, the depreciation of the rupee, tight liquidity, high rough diamond prices, and a slowing of the Indian economy. Feelings at the show, however, were upbeat, despite these temporary fluctuations. Exhibitors were hopeful that the upcoming Indian festivals and wedding season would help increase sales.

One of the new initiatives at the show was an exhibition of Filigree, Patwa, Bidri, and Bamboo jewellery, sponored by the GJEPC, under the “Craft to Jewellery” banner. It also announced the creation of the Gem and Jewellery Skill Council of India, whose goal is to encourage designers and brands to incorporate traditional Indian crafts into their pieces. It is also seen as a way to help skilled artisans to earn a steady income so that these skills are not lost.

A second initiative was announced by Sanjay Kothari, GJEPC vice chairman, who indicated that the organization would launch a three-year generic diamond marketing campaign in India and China for consumers. “India and China should take the lead in promoting diamond jewellery to the consumer public,” he stated, adding that the GJEPC was in talks with the Diamond Administration of China (DAC). “India is the most important market for us and we have resolved to start our diamond promotion efforts right here. During the next three years, we intend to allocate two to three million US dollars per year toward this goal.” Kothari also called upon other diamond centers to join the consumer-focused campaign.

During the IIJS, the RBS Solitaire Awards, under the gem-friendly theme of “Color Splash,” were given at a ceremony at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Mumbai. The awards were divided into two categories: Competition A, for IIJS exhibitors and Competition B, for non– IIJS participants that included students and artisans.

The sixth edition of the prestigious IIJS Signature show will be held in Mumbai from February 22 to 25, 2013. Next year’s IIJS 2013 will take place from August 8 to 12, in Mumbai.

www.gjepc.org

www.iijs.org