By Cynthia Unninayar
As 16th-century philosopher Sir Thomas More envisioned it, Utopia is a faraway and mythical island of harmony and perfection, a gateway between heaven and earth. On a more terrestrial level, 20th-century Italian creators Paolo Gaia and his daughter Anna envisioned jewellery that would evoke this same perfection and harmony: “We imagined the light on that island to be similar to the luminescence of Utopia Jewels.”
This Utopian story started in Milan more than 60 years ago with a family enterprise called Gaia, a gemstone cutter and supplier of pearls and precious gems. In 1997, the third generation decided to create a brand that would give new life and image to South Sea pearls and coloured gems. Paolo and Anna chose the name Utopia, to reflect the perfection of their products.
“The gleaming perfection of South Sea pearls and precious gemstones combined with precious gold and diamonds evokes the essence of Utopia Jewels,” says Anna. And, to reach this level of Utopian perfection, she adds, “each jewel is made entirely in our own workshops in Milan, from A to Z. This includes cutting the coloured gemstones and even making the clasps. It is important to have perfect quality control. Our customers, and their customers, are very demanding and we want to offer the best quality we can.” When it comes to quality, Utopia insists on only the finest gems and pearls. “We use only the South Sea and Tahitian variety because they are the most precious and beautiful. They deserve to be showcased in fine jewellery.” The brand’s team of experts travels the world over in search of the finest stones, and it partners with a pearl farm in Australia to obtain the highest quality of these living gems.
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| Anna Gaia, president of Utopia-Jewels USA |
Anna herself spent eight months at the farm learning how to determine the quality of pearls, something she still loves doing. “Actually,” she reminisces, “I was not interested in jewellery or joining the family business when I was younger.” Preferring the world of finance, she obtained a degree in Economics from Milan University. “Living in Milan, however, and with my family in jewellery, I became more involved with design and fashion. I began to appreciate the precious metals, gems, and, of course, the perfect pearls that take more than two and a half years to create.”
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| Bolero necklace, earrings & ring |
Today, as president of Utopia Jewels USA, she not only manages the company, but also brings feedback from the market to the brand’s team of designers. “I am the link between the market and the design,” explains Anna. “For example, I saw the need for placing our upmarket yearly collection, Bolero, on the same level of importance as a new more fashion-oriented, gem and pearl line called My Utopia.” While the brand uses mostly precious stones—mainly sapphires of all colours—this new fashion-forward collection mixes semi-precious gems with South Sea and Tahitian pearls with a high design element.
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| My Utopia |
The new My Utopia collection is composed of two styles: a more classic line and more fashionoriented pieces.
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| One-of-kind bracelet |
Utopia also creates one-of-kind pieces with unique designs and exceptional pearls and gemstones. In terms of fashion, Utopia also anticipated the trend towards blackened metals and uses black 18K gold mixed with brown diamonds and dark or multi-coloured Tahitian pearls. “The use of brown diamonds permits us to create products at lower price points than white diamonds, in keeping with market demands, while being quite stylish,” she explains.
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| Notturno scarf necklace & earrings |
“In terms of market demands, we listen to our retailers, and we support them in a number of ways. First of all is our product design and quality. Secondly, most of our media planning is done in co-op with our retailers, using magazines that they suggest, including local publications. Thirdly, we are introducing special lines such as our present entry-level collection at Couture for the American market, with retail prices ranging from $1500 to $4000. I must say that this has been quite an effort because of the high prices of South Sea pearls and the quality of the pieces. The line has two styles, one classic and one more contemporary.”
Utopia has been present in the American market for four years, with an office on Madison Avenue and a fully equipped service centre to handle any alterations or repairs that might arise. Manuel Martin, director of the U.S. operation, explains, “It was important for us to have a presence here since it allows us to have closer contact with our clients and, in turn, to be in a position to respond to their needs in a more timely manner.” Among the brand’s clients are many independent retailers as well as Saks and Neiman Marcus. Wh a t about the Utopian future? “Our primary market is now Europe,” Anna states, “but our plan is to strengthen distribution in Eastern Europe and the Middle East, as well as in the USA. We eventually want to open some corners and single-brand boutiques in a few international tourist destinations.” Anna is not in a hurry, however, insisting that everything has to go step-by-step, with controlled growth. “I believe that it is important to proceed steadily and smoothly, keeping in mind that the most important aspects of our business are the products and the support for our retailers.” This then is the secret to the harmony and perfection of Utopia Jewels.
