omellato is much more than just a brand: it is Milan incarnate, decked out in gold and colours, simultaneously understated and daring. Its elegance stems from Milanese tradition and expertise, rigorous design and a passion for craftsmanship that transforms style into emotion. It is no coincidence that the creative genius of architects, artists and designers has made Milan the world capital of taste and fashion.

The history of Pomellato began in the heart of the city in 1967, when miniskirts were all the rage in London and the world was experiencing a major economic boom. It was in this context that visionary entrepreneur Pino Rabolini founded Pomellato. In a resolutely bold move, he revolutionised the world of jewellery, capturing the spirit of the times by creating precious, easy-to-wear jewellery for the emancipated women of the 1960s.

Collezione 1967, Iconica Extreme parure, Pomellato High Jewellery

The first collections featured voluminous statement pieces, giving women a taste for stylistic and aesthetic independence that remains at the heart of all the brand’s creations to this day. The name “Pomellato”, which in Italian means a piebald horse, was born of Rabolini’s passion for the equestrian world and its natural elegance.

Pomellato’s stylistic signature has always been characterised by jewellery with sensual volumes, rounded and organic shapes in unconventional styles, consistently revealing a contemporary soul. In the 1970s, Rabolini’s chains broke with years of convention. Engaged in a tireless quest, he explored the art of link-making, reinterpreting and innovating over years to create some of the most beautiful jewellery of its kind. These sensual, provocative chains, photographed by Helmut Newton in a memorable 1980s campaign, encapsulate the modern spirit of Milan.

Collezione 1967, The Art of Chains bracelet, Pomellato High Jewellery

Carving sensual forms from precious metals is just one of the House’s characteristics; fearless use of colour is another. Varieties of precious and semi-precious stones not usually found in traditional jewellery become large polished cabochons or uniquely faceted gems.

Now part of the Kering group, Pomellato is enjoying growth and renewal in line with its founder’s pioneering spirit. Hovering between tradition and avant-garde, profoundly Milanese yet deeply international, its story continues under the aegis of CEO Sabina Belli and the creative direction of Vincenzo Castaldo. We caught up with them at the Paris presentation of the House’s latest fine jewellery collection, Collezione 1967.

Sabina Belli’s leadership

At the helm of Pomellato since 2015, Sabina Belli has ushered the House into a new phase, combining its Milanese roots with its international vocation. Under her leadership, the brand promotes values she cherishes: inclusivity, sustainability and women’s empowerment, transforming jewellery into a cultural and social manifesto. We exchanged a few thoughts with her.

Sabina Belli, CEO Pomellato

Europa Star Jewellery: Pomellato has always been very close to women and right from the outset, the brand was designed for independent, liberated women. How are you continuing this “tradition” and what have the most important steps been for you in positioning the House under your leadership?

Sabina Belli: Women’s emancipation is not just a tradition for us, it’s part of our history. In 2017, to celebrate the brand’s 50th anniversary, I launched the Pomellato For Women communication platform. Over the years, the project has grown into a global movement for gender equality and diversity, giving voice to stories of courage and self-determination.

Collezione 1967, Asimmetrico Tanzanite necklace, Pomellato High Jewellery

How is the idea of Milanesità conveyed through the product, communication and distribution?

Milan is synonymous with understated sophistication and innovation rooted in tradition. In our jewellery, this translates into bold yet wearable designs; in our communication, into a clean, modern aesthetic; and in our boutiques, into spaces reflecting architectural elegance and attention to detail. Casa Pomellato – our headquarters in the heart of the city – is the ultimate expression of this identity.

Collezione 1967, Lagoon Bavarole necklace, Pomellato High Jewellery

The environment has become a key issue for the jewellery sector. What action is Pomellato taking to promote sustainability?

For us, sustainability is a 360-degree responsibility. We are certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council, we use 100% responsible gold and we invest in the traceability of precious stones. We have eliminated single-use plastic and work with recyclable packaging. Above all, we are training the next generation through programmes such as Pomellato Virtuosi, in collaboration with the Galdus school in Milan.

Collezione 1967, Marvelous Griffe rings, Pomellato High Jewellery

What prompted you to start presenting fine jewellery collections a few years ago and how do you maintain the balance in terms of positioning with your ready-to-wear collections?

Fine jewellery was a natural evolution. We didn’t want to reproduce tradition, but instead to bring our unconventional spirit to this end of the range. Every creation, whether it’s a piece of fine jewellery or an Iconica ring, retains the recognisable Pomellato look.

Vincenzo Castaldo’s creative vision

As Pomellato’s artistic director, Vincenzo Castaldo brings his sensitivity to fashion and his ability to interpret the spirit of the times to jewellery. We spoke with him about roots and innovation, unique gemstones and collections that continue to express the House’s Milanese soul.

Vincenzo Castaldo, Artistic Director

Europa Star Jewellery: The fine jewellery collection presented in Paris in July embodies some of the House’s creative pillars since its founding in 1967. From a design perspective, how did you approach these pillars to revisit them in a contemporary light?

Vincenzo Castaldo: I began by immersing myself in our archives: each decade revealed a different facet of our creative spirit: the chains of the 1970s, the sensuality of the 1980s, the bold colours of the 1990s. Collezione 1967 celebrates these roots by transforming them into a contemporary language, drawing on expertise that combines memory with innovation.

Collezione 1967, ZigZag Supreme necklace, Pomellato High Jewellery

Pomellato has always worked with uniquely cut gemstones, often set in large mounts. How do you set about sourcing these gemstones and how do you choose the cuts?

I look for character over standardised perfection: stones that tell stories, that stir emotions through unexpected colours and cuts. For the Lagoon Bavarole set, we selected 47 tourmalines, all different and combined them into a chromatic symphony. In Iconica Extreme, on the other hand, the volumes of gold interact with diamonds of different cuts, creating a dynamic tension.

The new Pom Pom Dot collection introduces a fresh, lighthearted concept. How does it fit with the more iconic collections?

Pom Pom Dot is a playful version of Pomellato with the same attention to quality. It fits perfectly with our heritage because it embodies our philosophy of “jewellery for living”. Customers might wear it with a piece from the Iconica or Nudo collections, for contrast. This versatility is deeply Pomellato.

Pom Pom Dot reversible rings, Pomellato

You cut your teeth in the fashion world: how did you translate that experience into the new Pomellato lines without betraying the brand’s history?

Fashion taught me to read the signs of the times, but in jewellery, time is different, deeper, longer. I see collections as a wardrobe, where each piece interacts with the others. In this way, Pomellato jewellery becomes a treasure to be passed on, faithful to a clear and consistent language that is our fundamental identity.